Friday, 14 June 2013

A Summer in the Maritime Alps

It seems like I've been here in the South of France for ages, yet actually it is only 4 weeks ago that I arrived in sunny Sospel, a quiet, pretty little town nestled amongst the steep wooded hillsides of the Maritime Alps. But what a crazy busy 4 weeks it's been!
I took a few days to drive down here in the van, choosing scenic roads and stopping to enjoy some of the places I was passing, making the most of the time on my own, knowing it was going to be straight into a busy job when I arrived.
I love driving in France...unlike the UK it is an entirely unstressful experience! The roads are well maintained and frequently quiet or even empty, and it is a stunningly beautiful country to drive through, with incredible views round almost every corner, and constantly changing scenery as you drive down through it. Having the van to stop and sleep in whenever takes your fancy is the ultimate way to travel around too, and allows you to stay in some fantastic little spots.

Roadside scenery on the drive through France
The Maritime Alps is not somewhere I've ever really visited in France before, despite having spent many long summers over the last 10 years with Gareth, we always stuck to the high alps, around Chamonix, and the Haute Provence area to the north west of here. There are many, many impressive areas of France, but I have to say, even though I've only been here a relatively short period of time, it really is beautiful...I absolutely love it.
It is quiet, yet somehow bustling with the little quirky parts of French life that I love...Markets full of fresh cheeses, meats, olives and fruit and veg; the usual locals who run the Boulangerie, the Tabac, the bar, who because it is a pretty small place, already recognise you after a few visits; the amusing characters that all little french towns seem to have, propping up the bar all day and putting the world to rights over a glass of Pastis; and many more things that make me smile. The pace of life is slow, and the sun shines most of the time, and the best thing of all is that hidden on the hills surrounding the town, in every direction, are the most amazing trails for riding bikes :)
There is pretty much a lifetime's worth of brilliant riding just in this valley, and then there are multiple other mountains and valleys to explore all around. There are also climbing areas of immaculate limestone nearby, the beach only a 20 minute drive away, and pretty river gorges and canyons to swim in and sunbathe next to...not really much not to like!

Sospel old bridge (Photo courtesy of http://en.nicetourisme.com)
Sospel is the base of Ash Smith and his partner Melissa and their family, organisers and creators of the Trans Provence, a 6 day Mountain Bike Enduro race that is run every October and attracts the world's best racers, and wilderness adventure biking enthusiasts, and is growing in popularity every year, as more and more people hear of the incredible race vibe, and the totally brilliant riding throughout the week. Places are limited to 55 spots for mere mortals, and 15 pros each year, and the entries sell out within seconds of going online. For good reason....
For those who don't get an entry, or who don't want to race, there is the option to join one of the guided trail weeks, following the exact race route, throughout May to July, and September.
This summer, my job is to guide on these weeks, getting to ride the route not just once, but many times....needless to say, I'm feeling pretty privileged to have this job!

Shredding the famous Grey Earth section with fellow guide Sandra

Fellow guide Chris pushing up through Alpine meadows on day 1
River crossing in the canyon...a proper bike adventure week!
Each week there is a team of 4 of us guiding 14 guests, with each day, 2 of us driving/setting up lunch and 2 guiding, then changing over part way through the day. The route travels from near Sisteron, in Haute Provence, to Menton, on the coast, right next to the Italian border. The trip is a real adventure, with long days, plenty of bike carrying, pushing and pedalling, river crossings, and a huge variety of riding. From soft, loamy, swoopy trails through forests, to narrow, exposed balcony trails tracing a line across steep hillsides, steep, rocky, loose technical descents, to open, fast and furious ribbons of singletrack crossing alpine meadows. And all with a stunning backdrop of snow-capped mountains, deep gorges, huge wooded valleys....it really does have it all!
It's been great fun so far to work within a team of like-minded colleagues, meet some awesome guests and each week see their excitement and enthusiasm at the trails we are taking them on (it'd be hard not to be totally stoked by these trails....), spend all day every day outside, get to ride my bike lots....It's the best job I've ever had by far :)

Fellow guide Patrice enjoying another fun flowy singletrack descent
Plenty of balcony trails like this throughout the route
The weather hasn't always been on our side mind you...after all, we are in the Alps. Last week there was a HUGE thunderstorm one afternoon. The morning had started bright and sunny as usual, with factor 30 being lathered on by all, camelbacks filled up to their full capacity, and anxiety about the long climbs in the sun. Then suddenly, mid afternoon, the sky began to darken, and soon enough, even though we were dry at that point, the echoes of thunder in distant valleys started to be heard. We rode the descent we were on in the quickest time so far, and just as we got to the bottom and joined the road, the rain started to fall. There was frequent thunder and lightening by this point, but never that close, so we weren't too worried, we were down in the valley so it couldn't be that bad could it? Moments later, torrential hail started to batter us, the painful kind that stings as it hits your skin, and bounces up off the road it is falling so hard. Leading my group, I kept my head down, aiming for a barn I could see not far away as somewhere to shelter. As I got about 25m from the barn, the biggest, loudest, brightest, bolt of lightening and crack of thunder I've ever
heard, struck a pylon less than 20m away from where I was. It was the closest I've been to being hit by lightening, and really scary. My arms felt like electric shocks had gone through them, and my heart was beating so fast with fear and adrenalin, I was wide-eyed and breathless by the time I made it to the shelter of the barn and the excited jabber of the guests started. We waited for a while for the storm to pass, but when after an hour we were still waiting, cold and wet, and watching torrential hailstones from our dry shelter, it was time to make the call for an early pick up and call it a day.

It sounds an easy job, but it really isn't all just about playing on bikes all day. Maybe compared to a 9-5 job and the stresses that come with that it is, but you are busy all day, and the days are long...in fact the riding is the easy bit. You are working 24 hours a day essentially, so mentally, trying to make sure all the guests have the best possible time, and everything runs smoothly and to plan is pretty draining. You are responsible for a group of people on trails which are technically demanding, exposed, and remote, and where sometimes, if you make a mistake at the wrong point, you won't be walking away....so there's always a worry about not just ensuring everyone enjoys themselves, but also that they get down safely, and that is stressful in its own way. But I'm not complaining, I love every bit of it, and getting to ride these trails each week is a real bonus :)

On days off, there is always someone around to ride with. Yesterday morning, Ash, Emily and I set off early to go and explore a new trail that Ash had spotted on the map. We weren't disappointed. It was a trail of two halves, with the first part on sublime, flowing singletrack through the woods on the side of a hill, reminiscent of a wooded footpath in the UK (but dryer, longer and totally legal!) before it suddenly spat you out into a section of dry, rocky limestone switchbacks in the sun, surrounded by the smell of lavender and rosemary that is so familiar to the south of France. Poppies and other brightly coloured flowers lined the trail, as we cruised down to the next village for a coffee, hitched a lift back to the top of the col with a Romanian delivery driver, and then rode another amazing trail back down to Sospel. A good morning :)
Tomorrow I start a 4 week non-stop stint, so this week, have been making the most of chilled out days, riding trails in the morning, sunbathing and reading in the afternoon, repairing my bike, oh, and practising some new skills that I'll hopefully be able to put into use on the trail soon ;)

Endo practice in the garden!

Fellow guide Emily pedalling up to enjoy some more Sospel classic descents
I feel happier here than I have done anywhere in the last 18 months, and even though every night during guiding weeks is in a different place, I'm more settled than I have been for a long time. Gareth would have totally loved it here...the trails, the job, the people, the scenery, the pace of life....all the things I love about it. I wish he was here more than anything, and I think of him still every day, especially on sections of trail I just know he would have really enjoyed. I hope wherever he is, he can see me riding and know that I never stop thinking of him....

Well, time to go and sort my stuff out for the next few weeks...A bientot!






Monday, 6 May 2013

A busy month and a new adventure...

I'm not entirely sure where this last month has gone. I was pretty sure when I came back from South Africa that I had plenty of time to get all the things I had to do, done, and well, that doesn't seem to have happened!
However, I have had a pretty good month of visiting and catching up with friends and family, getting my bikes sorted for the summer, sorting out the van, my house in Sheffield, and the 5 months post I forgot I would have to sort through, and having a few mini adventures :)

Stunning views from part way up the route on Great End
I managed to sneak in a bit of proper winter fun, with some easy ice climbing with friends in the Lakes and the Cairngorms, and even some ski-touring too, with a great descent on fantastic snow down Lurcher's gully in the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms by headtorch :)
Coire an t-Sneachda in great Winter conditions

Alladin's Couloir
The Cairngorms in winter are a fairly special place for me, as Gareth and I spent a lot of winters driving up for consecutive weekends of climbing or skiing when the conditions were good, and many school half term holidays too. Our first valentine's night was spent driving up from Sheffield to Aviemore, arriving after midnight, then sleeping in a micra in the campsite ready for a 4 am wakeup to go and walk in to climb some routes! It was certainly memorable, and we did have a great weekend...Maybe not everybody's idea of romance though!
The route I did in the Lakes with John and Mhairi was also I think the same route that Gareth and I climbed on our first ever weekend away together over 10 years ago, so I spent quite a bit of time sat on the snow in the sun at the top, thinking back to happy days in the hills together, feeling a little bit sad, as always, not to be sharing these experiences still, and noticing the quiet emptiness that accompanies even the most fun days out now, but knowing he'd want me to be going out and making the most of the beautiful day that it was.

I also managed to complete my Mountain Bike Leader award with Jules Fincham from Cyclewild Scotland while I was up in Aviemore. Every course I have done with Jules has been fantastic, his teaching style is relaxed and fun, and I come away feeling like I've learnt a lot, even after assessments, and inspired to ride my bike even more, keep building on my skills, and to encourage more people to ride and to enable them to get as much out of riding as I do. Jules also rides my dream bike (Ibis mojo HD), so I do unfortunately have to contain my bike envy whilst riding with him, but he does know some awesome bits of singletrack which are practically in his backyard, which he always seems happy to share :) If you're thinking of riding in the Aviemore area and need a guide or want to do any kind of skills or leadership course, Jules is definitely the guy to go to!

Cyclewild Scotland

There's also been trips to Bristol for a volunteer beach clean up morning and walk around Cheddar gorge with Caz, a very exciting day at the Harry Potter Studio tour, a no excuses Thursday night ride, rides around the peak, remembering how much I love the local trails, and of course plenty of riding up in the Highlands on pristine, yet deserted singletrack. And of course the latest mini-adventure...

It was this time last year that I was setting off on my off-road Land's End to John O'Groats ride, which looking back now, is definitely the hardest physical challenge I've ever set myself. Anyway, ever since that ride, I've found myself drawn to wanting to do some more journeys by bike. The kind of ride where you find yourself somewhere totally different each night from where you set off that morning, carrying the stuff you need with you, navigating on trails that are new to you, discovering beautiful new places, and feeling like rather than just "going for a ride", you've been on a journey. Travelling by bike is such a brilliant way to see places, and even short journeys can feel like a big adventure.
So last weekend, John, Pete and I (plus Tom who joined us on day 2), set off on the Lakeland 200, a 200km mountain bike ride around the Lakes, taking in quite a lot of big passes, some gnarly descents, and also lots of our old favourite trails. We stole the route idea from the internet, however, the website suggestion of a solo self-supported non-stop ride was not even considered for a micro-second! No way, we were going for a 3 day ride, staying in hostels, carrying as little as possible to make life easier for ourselves! It was still quite hard though, in fact really hard! More epic than the Cape Epic, and if it had gone on for another 20 days, then definitely on a par with the LEJOG!
Descending from Boredale Hause

Pushing up High Street with a snowstorm chasing!
On the first day we rode 85km, climbing (and descending) 3100m, from Keswick to Staveley, with intermittent snow and hail showers, some wind on the tops, and a 10 hour day of riding...finishing at a campsite where we'd previously dumped a car the night before, in heavy rain, soaked to the skin and freezing cold. Thankfully the campsite had a bar and hot food, so we were able to rehydrate with pints of Cumberland Ale, and refuel with Steak and chips. I was too lazy to put up a tent (that's what happens when you're used to the luxury of having a van and not having to faff about putting up tents in the rain!) so slept in the drying hut for the campsite! It wasn't busy (everyone else had seen the forecast and decided camping was a stupid idea) so I don't think anyone minded, or even noticed :)
John, Pete and I in Staveley at the end of day 1
The next day was cold but sunny, and joined by Tom with his annoyingly fresh legs, we set off for Eskdale. We rode another 80km, up and down 2900m worth of hills, pushed through some bogs, whooped our way down some fast rocky descents, and somehow staggered in to the beautiful Eskdale valley 11 hours later.
John climbing to the summit of Walna Scar Road

Early evening light on the descent into Eskdale
The youth hostel is set in a stunning position in this quiet peaceful valley, and with a pub just 300m away seemed pretty much ideal....until the Karaoke at the pub started due to there being a Cider and Sausage festival on, and a group of people decided to sit outside our room drinking until 3 am :(
I think we managed to get a few hours of sleep each, although it didn't feel like it when the alarms went off the following morning.

The will to get going for our final day was not helped by the change in the weather. Low cloud and heavy drizzle engulfed the valley, and with a route that was to take us over into Wasdale, then over Black Sail pass into Ennerdale, then over Scarth Gap to Buttermere, then over Honister pass and around Derwentwater to Keswick, we were all a bit reluctant to get going. It was one of those days where if you'd been on a normal trip, you'd have probably done a token short ride, before retreating to the Cafe for tea and cake. As it was, with our vehicles in Keswick, and us in Eskdale, we had either a 40km hilly off road route to get back to them, or a looooooong way round on the road. There was nothing for it but to man-up and get on with it. Like always in these kind of conditions, once you got moving, it wasn't that bad. Except for our tired legs, slippery rock, massive bogs, persistent rain and a bitterly cold wind, it was great!?! (Type 2 fun I kept telling myself!!)
Pete not impressed with the change in weather (or his choice of shorts?!)

Stream crossing...not much fun in cold wet weather!
When we made it over into Wasdale, we were soaked to the skin and bitterly cold. Thankfully the kind people at the Wasdale Head Inn opened up early and we bought multiple cups of hot chocolate, and sat by the fire waiting for our kit to dry a bit. After an hour or so, wearing all the clothes we'd bought with us, we headed out again, and were soon shouldering the bikes for the steep carry up and over Black Sail Pass. Reminiscing about Dogtanian and the Three Muskehounds soon passed the time, and before we knew it we were at the top looking down a stupidly steep descent. We all rode at least some of it, but the combination of steepness, wet grass, slippery slime covered rocks, and sections that we could barely climb down let alone ride, as well as being in a fairly remote place, in bad weather, a long way from help should anything go wrong, meant that mostly we pushed (except Tom who was adamant he was going to ride it all having carried his bike all the way up!). Scarth Gap pass was similar, a steep carry up, a steep, slippery descent down, but at least we could ride a lot more of it :)
A welcome tailwind up and over Honister pass helped us to the final part of our trip, down a rocky track into Borrowdale, and singletrack around the base of CatBells to get back to Keswick. 29 hours of riding after we set off, we made it back to the van and treated ourselves to celebratory fish and chips before packing up and heading home. It felt a lot longer and bigger than a 3 day trip, but then that's the great thing about adventures like that :)

Since then, there's been a trip to Sheffield for some decking cleaning and painting (eurgh), some panicking as the trusty van broke down and needed a new part, and a trip to North Wales and a return to climbing for the first time in almost a year (nothing like throwing yourself back in at the deep end by heading to the scary sea cliffs of Gogarth on Anglesey for a first climbing trip after a break!)

And now my "recovery" month (not sure that's actually what it has been!) is over, and tomorrow I'm heading off somewhere new for a summer job which I'm pretty excited about. I'll be working as a Mountain Bike Guide in the south of France, guiding the route of the Trans-Provence race...whoop! Better carry on packing....


Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Cape Epic final instalment!


A view of imposing mountain ranges all round the town of Tulbagh greeted us as we woke on day three, and once again, it looked set to be a hot and sunny day’s riding. Today’s route was basically a figure of eight tour of the basin, traversing vineyards and farmlands, and skirting the surrounding mountains. The route profile showed there would be lots of ups and downs (no surprises there!), interspersed with flowing singletrack sections (yippee!), and at 94km, with easier climbing than the previous 2 days, it was the organisers idea of a recovery day!
I’d woken feeling good. Unlike on other races or big trips like my Land’s End to John O Groats ride, I hadn’t yet had a day where I’d woken feeling tired or stiff, or dreading the thought of getting on a bike and riding all day. I was raring to go, and combined with the fact I was actually going to get to ride a fully functioning bike for the first time in the race, I couldn’t wait to get started and be out riding fun trails in the sun.
Getting ready to start day 3

I really enjoyed the day…the hills were shorter than previous days, and the singletrack descents fun and flowy, and I never felt like I was working at any more than a leisurely Sunday ride pace…My bike felt amazing, my legs felt strong, and I whooped and smiled my way up and down the trails, chatting to fellow riders and taking in the fantastic scenery. 
Flowing woodland singletrack = big smile!
We rode through huge vineyards, past big estate houses with well-dressed spectators sipping sauvignon blanc and politely clapping us past (I even had a sip en route as I waited for Dave at the top of a hill J), through fruit orchards of pears, oranges, pomegranates and mangos to name a few (not the fruit you see growing on trees in the UK that’s for sure!), with fruit pickers singing as they worked and cheering us as we rode past. 
Riding past fruit orchards

...and vineyards

We saw local children and villagers stood at the side of tracks cheering us on too, with lots of the children running alongside us for as long as they could, or wanting a “High 5” as we passed.
The stark difference between the immaculate lawns and gardens and huge manor houses of the wine estates, compared to the very basic, small, tumbledown houses of the villagers living nearby was quite shocking, and a real eye-opener to me and I imagine quite a few racers who were taking in their surroundings and not just racing, heads down. We were seeing the real South Africa…not just the beautiful beaches and tourist hotspots of Cape Town, and I guess I naively hadn’t really thought that the inequality that the history of the country is so famous for, would still be so evident. It was really interesting, but at times made me feel quite uncomfortable…there we were, riding stupidly expensive bikes for fun, whilst being cheered by smiling families, who were probably living for a year, off less than the value of some of the bikes there…It was a good reminder that although I often feel life is very unfair when I think of losing Gareth, and the happy life we had and that I thought we were going to continue to share for years, there is a lot that I have to be very grateful for, and there are opportunities, circumstances and privileges I have had, that many people in the world will never have…

Although I was finding it was definitely a recovery day, Dave was, unsurprisingly, tired from the previous day. We’d adopted an easy pace from the start so he could recover from yesterday’s efforts, but he stubbornly refused any offers for me to take anything from his bag to even our pace out a little! He seemed to be riding at a steady comfortable pace on the hills though, and sensibly sticking to his own recovery pace, giving me some time to get ahead and take pictures as he came past. Unlike in Adventure Racing, where towing using a bungee cord is allowed, you cannot do this in bike racing. It might look a bit daft, but it’s actually a really sensible idea, as it keeps teams together, and evens out pace, by the faster person using some of their energy to assist the slower person and make their life easier. This wouldn’t have been possible anyway on the sandy, narrow tracks we were riding, and with the number of people around, but it would have stopped me getting ahead without realising Dave was no longer behind me, and then having to find a spot in the shade to stop and wait, and it might have been nice for Dave given in AR he’s the one always towing me uphill on the running sections!
Normally, although I'd have to stop and wait a while after a descent, or slow down until Dave caught back up, on climbs there wouldn't be much between us, especially non-technical ones....but every time I turned round today, despite the easier pace, Dave had dropped right back… combined with the hot temperatures it wasn't as much of a recovery for him as it was for me, and he looked uncharacteristically tired…yesterday’s effort to make the cutoff had really taken it out of him. We did however finish at a much earlier time than the previous two days, so I was hoping that would allow him more recovery time too!

During each stage, there were 3 water points, where an army of super friendly volunteers awaited, ready with water, coke, energy drink, salted potatoes, marmite sandwiches, fruit, nuts, sweets, cake, and allsorts of tasty food to grab, and liquid to restock drinks bottles with, as well as mechanics to fix bikes, people relubing your chain, and sunglass lens cleaners.
One of the daily water/service points
As you arrived at each water point, your names were announced, (which made you feel just a little bit like a pro!) and it was always a morale boost to find yourself at waterpoint 3 each day, knowing the next checkpoint was the finish line, roughly 25-35 km away…nothing compared to the distance already covered! Waterpoint 3 also had the friendliest commentator and volunteers, definitely our favourite waterpoint each day! We soon found our own routine at each stop, for me it was refilling my camelback, followed by a couple of beakers of coke (never drunk so much of the stuff or looked forward to the cold, tasty sugar rush of it quite so much as I did in this race!), a handful of salted potatoes, a marmite sandwich, and then washed down with another beaker of coke, before grabbing the bike, waiting for the chain to be lubed, checking Dave was ready, and getting going. By today’s stage this routine had become well established!

When we finished the days stage we learnt that lots of teams had dropped out today from injuries, fatigue, or just the heat. We had finished in 377th place overall out of the original 626 starters, and had moved up to 47th in the mixed class out of 61 starters….no longer the bottom team even after all our penalties and bike breaking!

Day 4’s stage, from Tulbagh to Wellington, was a day of contrasting riding, with smooth gravel roads to start, then rugged dirt tracks, a long tarmac climb up the National Monument of the stunning Bains Kloof Pass, a fast road descent, then beautifully manicured purpose built singletrack down towards the Cape winelands.
Self portrait whilst riding up Bains Kloof Pass!

Dusty dirt tracks out of Tulbagh and over towards the Cape Winelands

There were 3 big climbs and descents to tackle over the 120km distance, and the day was looking set to be another scorching hot one.
The gravel roads we had discovered by now, were not as smooth as you imagine. Instead they were an uncomfortable bumpy experience, where the hard packed gravel surface and the effect of vehicles driving over it, had combined to create endless small corrugations that I hated riding over. There were normally a couple of slightly smoother lines at the side of the roads that could be stuck too, and if there was a chain of riders to draft, then this is where the chains would be, but to overtake you were forced onto the rough stuff. I’m sure riding over these tracks is the reason that now, a month after finishing, I still have no sensation in either of my little fingers or that side of my hand!
Dave approaching on the dreaded corrugated roads

Those roads were also reaaaaaalllly dusty, especially at the start, when hundreds of riders in front were kicking up dust clouds that made it hard to see past your front wheel, and added an element of excitement when riding in a pack with people very close in front, behind and either side of you. I breathed in several lungfuls of dust I think, and for most of the week felt like I had a mild chesty cough, which I’m sure was purely from my lungs trying to clean themselves out!
I was hoping Dave was going to feel good to ride a bit harder after the recovery day the previous day, but our pace was not quite as well matched as I’d hoped...Dave still looked tired from his day 2 epic, whereas I felt full of energy, and like I wanted to raise the pace to feel like I was pushing myself rather than just cruising. I was gradually spending more time waiting at the top and bottom of hills, and was selfishly feeling a little bit frustrated as I wanted to race, and feel as exhausted at the end of each day as I’ve felt in other big challenges I’ve done, but I was riding well within my comfort zone the whole time. I tried to remind myself that this was a team race, and if I wanted to purely ride at my own pace I should have found a solo competition! We certainly weren’t the worse matched pair by a long way anyway, and it wasn’t spoiling my enjoyment of the race at all. I was able to stop and take in the view and take pictures frequently, something which had I been racing at my limits I wouldn’t have had chance to do.


Refreshing water crossing!

More dry dusty trails :)


Stage 5 was my favourite day of the race. The route was short, at 75km, with a third of it on handbuilt singletrack trails which were fantastic. 
 
Whoop!

The start groups were staggered over 1.5 hrs to ease congestion on the trails and ensure maximum fun could be had by all. This definitely helped, but there were still some frustrating queues behind people who were getting off to ride any technical sections. The temperature was also off-the-scale hot, and there was depressingly little shade especially on the climbs, but we were getting used to it by now!
Another hot and dusty day done

5 days down!
On day 6 we rode from Wellington to Stellenbosch, on the last long stage of the race, at 99km and 2950m climbing. There had been some rain and strong winds during the night, so when we awoke in the morning there were tents everywhere, but thankfully my earplugs had meant I’d slept right through it all! It looked like we were going to have to battle a headwind all day, but actually we  didn’t notice it much at all apart from the start, and the cooler temperature and less dusty trails were a nice change!
The first 20km were in forestry plantation on the slopes of Du Toitskloof, with pleasant, steady climbing followed by a loamy singletrack descent. The second climb then took us through orchards, leading up to mountain fynbos, with protea shrubs in bloom on the side of the tracks, as the trail began to turn more rugged. 

Dave climbing on stage 6

Lots of pushing and tired legs...

Sign at waterpoint 3 on stage 6!

There were a lot of tired looking riders on the climbs today, and it was at one point on a tough climb during the stage, that feeling fit and fairly fresh, I rode past a group of South African riders slowly pushing their bikes up the hill, cheerfully saying hello as I passed, to be greeted with groans of dismay, when they realised that they were being overtaken by a girl who was riding a track they were pushing, wearing baggy shorts (very un-pro like!), with a Camera clipped to the chest strap of a backpack like a proper tourist! I admit to feeling a little bit smug and pleased with myself at this point J 
More fun riding = still smiling!
Flatter tracks then took us past the Drakenstein mountains and Freedom Hill, the hill that Nelson Mandela looked out at from his prison house at Victor Verster prison, during the last 3 years of his 27 years imprisonment. Another climb up trails hugging the steep slopes of Simonsberg mountain followed, but as we crested the pass, the incredible views onto Stellenbosch and the surrounding winelands made the previous hour’s efforts totally worthwhile.

The final day’s stage of just 54km saw us riding from Stellenbosch to the beautiful Lourensford wine estate. We climbed up through endless vineyards, to truly fantastic views at the top. 



Good, fast, fun descending followed, with TV cameras and crews out on the course, as well as loads of supporters. The route was all rideable if you had the energy, and the tracks were fast and flowy. 
Ready for the final descent...all downhill to the finish!
It felt like no time at all had passed before we saw the sign marking 5 km to go, and before we knew it we were crossing the line in the sun, joining the queue of other finishers waiting to receive our medals from some of the pro riders. The atmosphere was amazing, and there were thousands of people there watching and cheering us in, but in many ways the finish of these events is a bit of an anticlimax. It feels weird to have finished, and to think you’ll be waking up the following day no longer in “Cape Epic routine”, but back to reality. It’s a kind of “Right…that’s it then?” feeling. One minute you’re immersed in the race, and then it’s suddenly all over! It was brilliant to finish though, and the 15% team drop out rate, and number of people finishing as only one half of a team, showed it hadn’t been an easy event.

Riding across the line


We were rewarded with medals, t-shirts, and a huuuuuuge finishers picnic each, in its own insulated picnic bag with logoed fleece blanket. There was far too much food for one person, but it did keep me going for the rest of the week after the race! Then it was a case of bike dismantling and packing, showers, and then a taxi to the airport for Dave, and to the Afterparty for me!
We’d finished in 33rd place in the mixed, out of the 62 starters, and 416th overall, out of 626 starting teams, with a total time of 54 and a half hours riding over the 8 days (although some of that was a time penalty, and bike fixing time!).

Looking back now, almost a month later, it seems ages ago since we were in Cape Epic mode. It was a fantastic event, and one which I would love to do again at some point. The organisation, the scenery, the riding, the camaraderie amongst fellow riders, the volunteers, all of it just combined to make for a totally incredible experience.
I’d expected it to be one of the toughest things I’d done, but actually, it wasn’t at all. For me it was brilliant fun, and a chance to experience great riding in a different country, but it wasn’t “Epic” in the way I expected. Apart from a tough first day, I never really felt like I was pushing myself, it was more of a holiday experience than a challenge. I thoroughly enjoyed it, had a massive amount of fun, and saw so much and met so many people, but I didn’t have the sense that I’d accomplished something huge when I crossed the finish line…of course I was proud of our efforts and the fact we’d finished,  it just didn’t really feel that hard. Had I been racing or riding closer to my limits I suspect it might have done, but I was able to ride at a pretty comfortable pace the whole way, and never feel the pain, fatigue or exhaustion that I’ve felt on tough challenges before. A winter of riding every day, despite most of it being downhill!, had maybe given me more fitness then I'd expected to have and subsequently I wanted to be able to ride faster and push harder to get that feeling of working at my limits. Dave is a brilliant friend to ride with though, and even though our pace wasn’t quite as well matched as the week went on as I thought it would be, we didn’t kill each other by the end, and most importantly, we both finished together as a team, which had been our main goal at the start. That was despite breaking bikes and bits of bikes, a knee injury that looked only a month before the race that it might have meant Dave never even got to the start line, and no training or riding together for months before the race…..I think we can say we did ok given all of that, and I hope Dave enjoyed racing with me as much as I did with him J.
The finish line in Lourensford

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

The Epic lives up to it's name....


A 5.15am wake up from a bagpiper (the first of many that week) was not what I had been expecting on Monday morning, but nevertheless, the volume certainly served as an alarm clock I don’t think anyone would be able to sleep through. 
Start chute crowd
Soon enough we were lining up in our allotted start chutes, based on our times from the prologue the previous day. Everyone was to go off between 7am and 7.30,  in a rolling start through the town, with the pro riders taking the front start chutes, down to the slowest riders at the back.

The route started pleasantly enough, with a steady climb up out of the valley on a relatively smooth track. Twelve hundred people riding bikes together means that unless you are at the very front (zero chance of that in a race like this!) then your speed is partly limited by the people in front of you, and they by the people in front of them. Concentration is important, as with that many people, holding your line and not wandering around is crucial so you don’t clip the wheel of another rider. We soon settled into a comfortable pace, chatting to fellow riders, and enjoying the cool early morning temperatures. With 99km and 2500m climbing ahead, and the first day of 7 further long tough days, there was no rush to push too hard, but we felt strong and relaxed and were both enjoying the start of the race. As the gradient flattened out, the field had been spread out a little by the climb, and was further separated by the sandy surface we now found ourselves on. Pretty soon everyone was off and pushing up a steep sandy slope. 
The first of many sandy pushing sections
Sand was to become one of the major themes of the day, but at this point, it was a novelty and there were lots of smiling faces and excited chatter. There were breathtaking views of the valley below as we crested the top of the climb, but it was the sight of a loose, rocky descent ahead as a reward for the climb that had made my eyes widen with delight.

It soon became apparent, even though the track was not too technical, that the vast majority of riders in the group we found ourselves in, whilst obviously very fit and who had climbed quickly, were not the most confident descenders. The start of the descent, rather than being a fast, wild, wind in your hair, grin inducing ride, was a cautious, slow, hands working too hard on brakes affair. It was frustrating in the extreme….this should have been a place for free speed and mileage covered with no effort! I tried to remind myself that spending a winter riding steep technical downhill tracks at speed, was a different background to most of the people around me, and to have more patience. I desperately wanted to shout “Speed is your friend!” to the people in front slowly rolling down the track, and remind them that the bike’s suspension would work better and the track would feel smoother if they let go of the brakes a bit….I felt like I was in Guiding mode. One particular Dutch pair, who were to become a dreaded sight for Dave and I over the following week, were riding on their expensive full-suspension 29 inch wheeled bikes, (that would have rolled over everything in our path with ease), like they were on rigid road bikes! Eventually, an opening appeared as everyone moved to ride on the slightly smoother side of the rutted doubletrack, and I took it, feeling relieved as I finally could ride at a speed that the track warranted, gleefully cruising past dozens of people braking behind each other on the other side of the track….this was fun J

I felt smug thinking how my trusty 4 year old 26 inch wheeled bike (definitely old-skool and in a minority in this event…26ers are sooooo old fashioned if you’re anyone who’s into XC racing), was deftly passing all its big-wheeled brothers, skipping over the loose rocky surface with delight, playfully jumping off little steps in the trail, doing what a bike should be allowed to do. And then disaster struck….

A sudden sound of metal hitting metal, and the back end of the bike dropping down brought me to an abrupt stop. I knew immediately that something on my bike was very broken, and looking down at the rear suspension confirmed it. The pivot bolts holding the suspension linkage to the frame had sheared completely….this was very bad. I stared in disbelief at the broken bike, trying to comprehend how in 12 years of riding I had never broken a bike, until the very point when it was least convenient…..all the last year of preparing and training, the cost of getting to the race, the time spent working towards the event, and it looked like it was going to be over in the first 18km. Riders flew past shouting “You OK? “ without stopping to wait for an answer….I’d have done the same….it’s not like they could do anything to help. Dave pulled up shortly after to find me looking helplessly at the bike, unable to think logically or practically because I was just trying to take in the fact of what had happened. The meticulous planning of what spares to carry with us could not help…the only thing we could do was somehow try and cover the 11km to the first water point where there would be a mechanic that could hopefully help us figure something out. Dave grabbed a big stick which we pushed between the frame and the rear triangle to at least enable me to slowly ride, as gently as possible, rather than push. People were streaming past us, a cameraman must have seen how distraught I looked and asked if I was ok….I started telling him what had happened, and started to cry…I was gutted, I thought the race was over L, and then he started filming! Just what I needed…

The temporary pipe/cable tie/wire fix to my broken bike
We eventually made it to the waterpoint, thankfully from where the bike had broken was mainly wide smooth tracks and road to get there, and I rushed over to the mechanic to see what he could do. Eyebrows were raised and heads shaken at the sight of the broken part. A few comments were made about how old the bike was (there were far too many people there with money to burn and a brand new bike every year….some of us live in the real world however!), and then the diagnosis was made that the bearing had collapsed, placing unintentional strain on the pivot bolt, which had in turn sheared. In other words I had no-one to blame but myself L I had made sure all the bearings were replaced in October before leaving for Tenerife, along with all other bike maintenance, as I knew I wouldn’t have time between arriving back from there and leaving for South Africa to do anything. I guess I’d probably then ridden it a few times (no doubt in wet, muddy conditions), and then it had sat, unused, all winter. Despite the bearings being new, they had probably seized, and I hadn’t even thought to check….schoolgirl error….Gareth would have been ashamed of such shoddy bike maintenance…he would never have allowed something like that to happen…..knowing that made me feel even worse…I’d let myself down, and him L

During all this stressing however, the friendly, calm, bike mechanic had picked up a piece of tough plastic pipe that was lying around, cut it to size, wrapped it in an inner tube, cable tied it to the frame, used some wire to hold the linkage to the rest of the frame, and declared the bike rideable! I didn’t know the guy, but he got a hug and a huge tearful thankyou anyway! With promises to ride slowly down anything rocky and rutted (damn it but those are the best bits! L ), we set off, riding extremely cautiously until I worked out the best way to ride it as smoothly as possible and put as little stress through the back of the bike as I could.

The miles passed slowly, and the temperature started to rise. A lot of the day is now a bit of a blur, but what I do remember is endless sand. At first, on tracks where it was a fairly level gradient, it was quite good fun, trying to balance and ride through deep, sandy sections to a firmer looking patch of track, and as the back end of a bike squirms around a lot on that kind of terrain anyway, it didn’t really matter that with a broken rear end, my bike felt even more wobbly. A winter of riding on sandy, gravelly surfaces must have prepared me well, because for a lot of the time, I was able to ride through, when other people were off and pushing. On the downhill sections, if you were prepared to ride fast, keep your weight back so the front wheel didn’t sink, stay off the brakes and just allow the bike to roll through where it wanted without trying to correct the steering too much, it worked a treat, and apart from when people stopped suddenly in front of me I could ride the majority of the flat and all the downhill parts. Dave was struggling a bit more to commit to my kamikaze technique of riding hard and fast into a patch of deep soft sand, and trusting that momentum would help you through it and not just bury the front wheel and pitch you over the bars (there were mutters of “it’s easier if you’re lighter!” and “I’ve got a higher centre of gravity so it’s harder to balance!”…ha!sorry Dave, all lame excuses!), but by the end of that section we were both sand riding masters, and due to the conditions, not really going any slower than we would have done had I had a fully working bike. Unfortunately, there then followed a lot of uphill pushing, through yet more sand, and no amount of technique could help with that.
Dave on another long, hot climb
Dave is possibly one of the few people in the world who likes pushing his bike. I am not one of these people. If it’s at all possible, I will stay on my bike as long as my legs, lungs and skill allow, to avoid walking…after all, if I wanted to go on a walk, I would do that without a bike, bikes are for riding. But for what seemed like several hours of torture, with a never-ending uphill sandy slog, painful feet where sand had seeped into our shoes leaving less room for toes, temperatures creeping above 40 degrees, and not a breath of fresh air, Dave actually smiled and chatted all the way up. When we finally crested a summit, and realised there was another, then another, still to go, I’m sure I actually saw him smile whilst I and everyone else around us let out a collective groan. If there was a World Championship for pushing bikes up horribly steep tracks, my money would be on Dave.
Long gravel road slog...at least this bit was rideable!
Anyway, somehow, 9 or 10 hours after starting (I don’t remember exactly, I’ve blocked it from my memory!), after a lot more climbing, energy-sapping sand and intense heat, we rolled across the finish line, hot, tired, sweaty and filthy with dust, but for me, relieved to still be in the race at all. The event was certainly living up to its name. On that day, a large number of riders failed to make the cut off time, there was talk amongst people who had ridden the event many many times, of how it was the hardest single day the organisers had ever thrown in, and even the pro riders had commented on how tough it was. And this was only day 1!
Look at that dust-tan!
What was also slightly worrying, was to discover after finishing that the mechanics couldn’t find a replacement part for my bike the following day. It appeared I was going to have to ride the next day’s stage of 145km, on a bike held together with cable ties, wire and plastic pipe…brilliant. I tried to look on the bright side and think that it had lasted the whole of today, but realistically, I knew it wouldn’t last the whole event as it was. Another friendly bike mechanic called Kyle promised he would be able to get hold of the part before stage 3 though, or else find me a replacement bike…those support guys were amazing, all going out of their way to try and help ensure I could continue the race.

Sitting in the dining marquee that evening, listening to former world champion cross country mountain biker Jose Hermida give his hilarious daily account of the race at the front of the pack, followed by former Welsh Rugby captain Colin Chavis give his account from the back (he had made the cut-off by 90 seconds!), it struck me how fantastic it was to think that we were all riding exactly the same course as the pros, meter for meter. Suffering the same sandy climbs, enjoying the same exhilarating descents. The Cape Epic is often considered by the pros as the Mountain Bike equivalent of the Tour de France, and we were there riding with them! (Well…just a bit further behind J). However, whilst the pros are finished each day after 4 or 5 hours of riding, and have a whole afternoon for recovery, people to fix their bikes, massage their legs, etc, to prepare for the following day, us mere mortals were riding for 7-10 hours or more, finishing late with much less recovery time, and having to sort our own bikes and kit. This is the brutal nature of stage racing. As the fastest guys at the front get stronger, due to always finishing early and having time to recover, the weaker riders get weaker as their cumulative riding time is much longer and recovery time gets less and less and they get more and more tired. There is a big difference between riding 30 hours in 8 days, and 60!
All quiet in the rider tent village
Stage 2, day 3, dawned bright and early again to the sound of bagpipes. The stage was to take us from Citrusdal and the rugged and remote Cedarberg region, to Saronsberg in Tulbagh, a fertile valley with quaint villages and big wine estates.

Once again we crowded into the start chutes, and the daily pre-start routine began to unfold…Two or three helicopters each day would hover above us all, ready to film the spectacle that is 1200 riders setting off in the cool, early morning light. There would be quad bikes and motorbikes with cameramen perched on the back again ready to take film or photo footage amongst the peleton, the MC would welcome us all, talk about the conditions, give any safety warnings, and then start the psyching up music. The songs were the same each day, but I’m still tapping my feet to the beat of them now, two weeks later, so they were certainly catchy tunes. In fact if I heard any of them at any point in the future, I know I would automatically be taken right back to the memory of waiting to start the stage each morning….it’s strange how music has such a strong and emotive effect on memory. The penultimate song was “chasing the sun”, during which you would see everyone start to stand over their bikes, clip one foot into a pedal, and start nodding heads in time to the beat, most people quietly preparing themselves for the task ahead. Then it would be “don’t you worry”, and there would be the last minute checks of helmet on, gloves done up, sunglasses clean etc etc, and slowly, we’d start to move…generally about 5 minutes after the start gun had sounded! That’s what the start is like from somewhere near the back of 1200 riders! The first few minutes would involve plenty of trackstanding and balance practice too whilst waiting for the bunch to get moving….there wasn’t much opportunity for racing off the line even if you’d wanted to!

We started comfortably enough, with a long steady climb gaining 900m in the first 18km, but mostly on tarmac then gravel roads. The hard-packed roads were full of small fast corrugations, which are uncomfortable to ride over at any time, but incredibly hard work on a bike with a broken back end. My hands suffered most from the lack of suspension, and even now, I am still waiting to regain sensation in my little and ring fingers on each hand! I was wishing I had a 29er to roll at least a little more easily over the bumps, or even just a fully functioning 26er! The other problem was dust. That many people riding fast over dusty roads that haven’t seen any water for a long time kicks up huge clouds of dust. At times it was hard to see even your front wheel, and my mouth felt constantly dryer than the Sahara.

Although not particularly easy to ride, my bike held up well, and it was probably good practice to try and constantly ride as smoothly as possible over everything. The route took us over the Middelberg pass, with a fast and loose gravel road descent down from the top, plenty of sharp bends to slow people down, but I was in my element….I’d been riding flat loose corners all winter and knew just how far I could push the bike and how fast I could take them whilst still keeping traction! It was great overtaking so many people…I can’t help but let my competitive side shine through at times like that…but then I got to the bottom, and when I started worrying a couple of minutes later that Dave hadn’t showed up, I had to remind myself this was a team event! Fortunately he was fine, just sensibly taking things steady on a surface he wasn’t used to with a high potential for crashes and injury!


Lots of smiling on fun descents :)
We traversed beautiful landscapes for hours, along farm roads and rolling double-track, taking us deep into the Koue Bokkeveld, known for its spectacular sandstone formations. A brilliant section of singletrack wound its way through some of these huge rocks and boulders, which although at times was frustratingly slow due to congestion and the occasional person getting off to walk through a technical section and causing everyone else to bunch up behind, was still great fun. However, it was shortly after this that things once again started to turn epic….

At some point during the tight, twisty, rocky section, Dave must have either caught his rear derailleur, or a rock had flicked up and hit it, and the metal cage housing the jockey wheels (that keep the chain running round as you pedal) had been broken. The chain therefore kept falling off, meaning Dave was having to stop every few minutes to put it back on by hand. We were 15km from the next waterpoint, and a further 30km from the end…we had no choice but to stop and try to fix it. The first attempts to use the universal fixes of cable ties and duct-tape failed, and soon it became evident we were going to need to remove the derailleur and Dave would have to ride the bike as a singlespeed to the waterpoint, and hope that the mechanics there had a new derailleur and chain they could fit for him. Unfortunately, the geometry and set-up of Dave’s bike meant the gear he would have to fix it in was the biggest one….not exactly ideal when you are faced with sandy tracks and undulating terrain for 15km like that L We tried various methods of making chain tensioners, altering the number of links in the chain to allow Dave to use an easier gear, and whatever we could think of, but other than damaging the frame of Dave’s brand new carbon bike, we had no success and were simply wasting valuable time.

Once we got riding I knew we had a problem…as well as the time we had lost from trying to fix the bike, our speed had slowed considerably, practically to walking pace…we were in serious danger of not making the stage cut-off time, and subsequently not finishing the race… The sandy nature of the tracks meant it was almost impossible for Dave to pedal in the gear he was in, I couldn’t push him because it was hard enough steering and pedalling through sand with both hands on the handlebars, and also he is over a foot taller than me, and was riding a 29er, so my arm wasn’t long enough to reach up and across and push his back. Dave had also been nursing a niggling knee injury and was worried about damaging it and not being able to continue the race, and I couldn’t lend him my bike as it was broken, and would have been far too small for him anyway…we were well and truly stuck, with Dave walking for a lot of the time L 
Dave pushing his now singlespeed bike on a flat sandy track
After 8 or 9 very slow km, with most of the back end of the field having passed us, I finally mentioned to Dave what I knew we’d both been trying to avoid thinking about. With such a huge amount of money, time and effort spent on getting to the race, neither of us wanted to not have the opportunity to count as an official finisher, but if we carried on at this pace, and the bike couldn’t be fixed at the waterpoint, we would both be in this situation. I felt terrible for thinking it, but I really wanted to finish the race as I didn’t know if or when the opportunity to do it again would arise. I tried to justify the thought by thinking that when my bike had broken yesterday, if it hadn’t been fixable, I would have told Dave to carry on without me so he could still finish and enjoy the race. As much as I  hated myself for doing it, this is a team event after all, I suggested to Dave that I go on, make sure the bike mechanics were ready for him if he got to the waterpoint in the cut-off time, and finish the stage, and if his bike could be fixed, he could still make the day’s stage time limit, and we’d just get a separation penalty of one hour, and if not, then at least one of us would still be able to finish the event, with the other counting as a “BlueBoard rider” someone who has missed a cut-off and won’t qualify as a finisher, but can still continue riding.

Dave swore….a lot, and that’s from a guy who I’ve rarely heard swear before. If it was me, I would have cried. This was not what we had envisaged when we set out riding the event a couple of days previously. We were both fit and feeling strong, but were being plagued with bike problems. I gave Dave a hug, wished him good luck, and set off riding quickly to try and make up the time lost, wondering for miles if I’d done the right thing. On reaching waterpoint 3 (my favourite one every day J) my hopes for Dave being able to finish the stage were raised by finding the mechanics had all the parts to fix Dave’s bike, and I was cheered slightly by the friendly guy announcing people as they passed through, and by Aussie volunteer Kate, who both agreed we had made the right decision in the circumstances….I continued to feel bad though….we were meant to be riding this as a team…

The rest of the ride was for me, spent riding fast, catching up time, and enjoying the final rough, technical singletrack descent on an old wagon trail (not sure I’d have taken a wagon on it but it was great for riding!). Even with a broken bike this was fun and my favourite kind of riding…steep rocky, narrow switchbacks, and some technical rocky features requiring concentration and good bike-handling skills…the roadies must have hated it and I passed plenty of people walking down.
I crossed the finish line and went to sit in the shade and recount our day’s story to the fellow riders I’d met and been chatting to over the last couple of days…and to wait and watch the clock with fingers crossed to see if Dave made it. Although it was a long stage, I’d actually had a pretty steady day, as Dave’s broken bike had meant I’d had quite a big portion of time where I wasn’t working very hard at all…unlike poor Dave. To our amazement and my delight, Dave crossed the finish line within the cut-off, with stories of having run/pushed for about 8km after I left him, his bike being fixed, and then a mammoth sprint over the next 30km to ensure he finished in time…an incredible effort! I’m not sure I’ve ever seen him looking quite as knackered as he did when he finished, and he promptly collapsed with several beakers of Coke, vast quantities of food, and groans as his leg muscles started to seize up!

Our fortunes continued to change for the better when my bike was fixed with a new part, obtained by Kyle the mechanic who’d driven for hours to collect it specially….after 225km, I was at last going to get to ride on a working bike again…whoop!

Our one hour separation penalty, added to Dave’s finish time, meant when the results were published for the day, we were lying last in GC (General classification – all teams in the event), but over the last 2 days, more than 60 teams had withdrawn with injuries or after failing to make cut-offs, or due to exhaustion, and many more were riding as individual riders after team mates had dropped out… so we were just glad to still be in. Unfortunately, unlike the Tour de France, there is no “Lantern Rouge”…the red jersey worn by the rider who is coming last, so we didn’t get to stand on stage with the other jersey winners (ha!), but we did wear red jerseys the next day anyway! Surely we were going to be allowed a straightforward day tomorrow…the event had certainly been Epic in more ways than we’d considered it might so far!